Florence

 FLORENCE: A Real Italian Renaissance

Florence Skyline

Ciao a tutti!

My friend Nicole and I have officially deemed ourselves the “unofficial” authority of all things related to Florence.  Nicole lived in Firenze for an entire semester, and I lived there this past summer.  Between the two of us, there is nothing that we haven’t done.  If you are reading this, we hope it means that you are preparing for a trip to Florence!  And we so excited that you are getting ready to visit one of the most places in the world.  Florence is one city where the magic of the Italian Renaissance is still alive and thriving.  While Rome is too big and Verona is too small, Florence is just perfect.  From wandering around the cobblestone streets and exploring fantastic museums and restaurants to watching the sunset from Piazza Michelangelo, Florence is guaranteed to claim a little piece of your heart.

This little tour guide is filled with our recommendations and suggestions on everything from things to see to places to eat. Don’t feel like you have to do all of it. Heck, don’t feel like you have to do any of it. However, these were our favorite things we did when we lived in Florence.  We both agree that our favorite thing about Florence is just the feel of the city. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to spend money to have fun there.  Just walk the streets, enjoy the vineyards, and listen to the beautiful Italian accents.  So, grab a gelato and a camera and set out to make some lasting memories in the heart of Tuscany.

– Blake & Nicole

Basic Facts:

  1. City Name: Firenze (Florence in Italian)
  2. Language: Italian
  3. Population: 370,000
  4. Metro System: No
  5. Currency: Euro
  6. Suggested Stay: 1 week
  7. Download Map

 A Quick History of Florence

 While Florence is best known for its achievements during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, it was by no means a young city when this era began. It was founded in 59 BC by Julius Caesar, who named the settlement Florentia (meaning “flourishing”), and designated it a haven for retired military veterans. In fact, the city was designed in the manner of a military camp, a pattern that’s still evident in the city center today

Because Florence is situated on fertile, farmable land, and located on a major travel route between northern Italy and Rome, it grew steadily from a small Roman settlement to a bustling commercial center. By the 3rd century AD, it was established as the capital of Tuscany (then called Tuscia), but its growing significance soon became a detriment. Around the beginning of the 4th century, the Byzantines and the German Ostrogoths were competing for the control of Italy, and Florence was one of the cities they continually fought over, causing such destruction that the population was, according to legend, reduced to fewer than 1,000 people.

By the 10th century, Florence was on a vigorous and steady ascent towards prosperity. The first stirrings of artistic activity began during the reign of Margrave Hugo, who moved to Florence in 1000 AD. Despite the political strife of the early 14th century, Florence continued to prosper, and in 1252, minted its own gold currency – the ‘florin.’ The city became a powerful banking hub, with many Florentine banks opening branches across Europe. The powerful Medici banking family ruled the city from behind the scenes, and also found fame as prominent patrons of the arts.

This economic strength fostered the growth of mercantile guilds and attracted an influx of immigrants, setting the stage for the creative movement known as the Renaissance. The city maintained its reputation for innovation throughout the 14th to 16th centuries. There were a dozen artists’ guilds throughout the city, and Florence exported massive amounts of high-quality wool and other textiles to Italy and Europe.

Many of the era’s most influential artists flocked to the city to create their masterpieces, including Michelangelo, Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Leonardo da Vinci. Their frescoes, sculptures, architecture and paintings are still preserved throughout the city and are major points of interest to visitors from around the world.

No brief history of Florence can ignore the extensive influence of the Medici family. They had been entrenched in Florentine politics from around the 1430s. In 1520, the family commissioned the politician and philosopher, Niccolo Machiavelli, to write a history of Florence, but it wasn’t published until after his death because it revealed too many details of their activities. In 1527, the Florentine government finally expelled the Medici family and re-established itself as a republic.

But the family employed the support of both the Emperor and the Pope to declare war on Florence, and after two attempts to regain power, they became the hereditary dukes of Florence in 1537. In 1569, they became the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, ruling the territory for the following two centuries.

Today Florence continues to thrive as a banking power, as well as a city of great historical and artistic significance. Finance and tourism fuel the city’s economic growth, and despite a flood that damaged thousands of important pieces in 1944, Florence boasts an unparalleled quantity of Italian Renaissance art that attracts millions of tourists each year.

The Highlights of Florence: The Must Sees

Il Duomo

Il Duomo

1.  The Duomo

Santa Maria del Fiore (also known simply as the Duomo) is the cathedral of Florence known for its distinctive Renaissance dome. Its name “Saint Mary of the Flower” refers to the lily, which is the symbol of Florence. The impressive Gothic cathedral complex includes the Duomo, the famous baptistery, and a bell tower.

The cathedral, which was the third to be built in Florence, was constructed on the site of the previous one, Santa Reparata, prompted by the magnificence of the new cathedrals in Pisa and Siena.  It was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1294 to be the largest Roman Catholic church in the world (although the design was later reduced in size), with the first stone being laid on September 8, 1296.  After Arnolfo died in 1302, work on the cathedral slowed. In 1331, the Arte della Lana (Guild of Wool Merchants) took over responsibility for the construction of the cathedral, and in 1334 they appointed Giotto as overseer for the work. His major accomplishment was the bell tower, but he died in 1337.

Construction on the dome began in 1420 and was completed in 1436; the cathedral was consecrated by Pope Eugenius IV on March 25, 1436.  It was the first ‘octagonal’ dome in history to be built without a wooden supporting frame (the Pantheon, a circular dome in Rome, was completed in 118-128 AD also without support structures and was the largest dome built at the time and it is still the biggest masonry dome in the world).

Duomo Sunset

Duomo Sunset

The cathedral’s facade was demolished in 1587 and left bare until the 19th century. In 1864 a competition was held to design a new facade, won by Emilio De Fabris, which would later become the most striking feature of the cathedral.  The facade, a gorgeous combination of red, green and white marble, makes the cathedral truly spectacular and completely different for any other church you have probably ever seen.

Insider Tip:  Climbing the Duomo was one of the highlights of our trips to Florence. The view from the top is an incredible display of the nearby mountains, the cathedrals of Florence and the city itself. Do not confuse climbing the bell tower with climbing the Duomo – the views are entirely different.  We suggest you start your climb to the top of the Duomo about 25 to 30 minutes before the sun sets. The climb itself should only take about 15 minutes. Watching the sun set from the top of the Duomo is breathtaking.  The cost to climb the Duomo is 8€ but well worth it. 

Basilica of Santa Croce

Basilica of Santa Croce

2.  Basilica of Santa Croce (Piazza di Santa Croce, 16)

The Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross) is the principal Franciscan church in Florence, Italy, and a minor basilica of the Roman Catholic Church. It is situated on the Piazza di Santa Croce, about 800 meters southwest of the Duomo. The site, when first chosen, was in marshland outside the city walls. It is the burial place of some of the most illustrious Italians, such as Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Foscolo, Gentile, and Rossini, giving it the name Temple of the Italian Glories (Tempio dell’Itale Glorie).

Insider Tip:  Santa Croce is just a lovely church to visit in Florence. There is some incredible artwork in the church, but outside the church is just as beautiful as the inside. The Piazza in front of the church is absolutely stunning, and a must see.  If you are able to see the splendor of Florence in the wintertime, Santa Croce is the home of the Florence Christmas Market. The market is actually a German Christmas Market and is very famous around the city. The Piazza and Church are illuminated with beautiful lights, and the area has an entirely different feel. Surrounding Santa Croce are wonderful little bars and cozy coffee shops. After touring the church, sit down for a drink or two in this area. There is not much else to see in this part of Florence, so make your stop here worthwhile.

Piazza Michelangelo

Piazza Michelangelo

3.  Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazzale Michelangelo provides one of the most famous views of the city. Aside from the gorgeous panoramic display, this stop will prove to be quite a romantic one as well. From this Piazza, you will see the famous Boboli Gardens, Pitti Palace, Arno River, Ponte Vecchio, Duomo, and San Miniato Church.  There are a few ways to get to the Piazza. We suggest walking, but it’s a good hike to the top.  Along the way, you will see some beautiful views of the city and get a good workout.  The walk itself isn’t very difficult but is mostly uphill and will take roughly an hour.  Make sure you wear some good walking shoes if you choose to make the climb yourself.  If you don’t want to walk to the top, you can just as easily take a bus or taxi.  Although the Piazza has an incredible view during the day, we recommend also going at sunset or at night. Its stunning to see all the monuments gleaming at night.

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Signoria

4.  Piazza della Signoria

 Piazza della Signoria is located in the heart of Florence just beside the Uffizi Gallery.  The Piazza is only a 5 minute walk from the Duomo and a 5 minute walk from the Arno river.  When walking from the Duomo, you will be walking down one of the biggest shopping streets in Florence – Via del Calzaioli.  These shops are more department stores than little boutiques, but some of the stores are worth having a look at.  When walking to the Arno from the Piazza, you get to walk through Piazzale degli Uffizi where you will see a stunning view of the Uffizi Gallery. At the end of walking through Piazzale degli Uffizi, you will see the Arno River directly in front of you – and the Ponte Vecchio to your right.

Located in Piazza della Signoria is Rivore, one of the most famous hot chocolate and pastry shops in Florence.  It is a little bit pricey, but definitely a place that should at least grab your attention.  Don’t be confused when you stumble across a statue of David in this Piazza too.  It is not the original one, but rather a copy that is sitting directly in front of Palazzo Vecchio e Quartieri Monumentali, the town hall of Florence which is now a museum.  Be sure to look for a secret pathway in this Piazza that connects Palazzo Vecchio all the way to the Boboli Gardens across the river. When facing Palazzo Vecchio, look for a walkway on your right and near the top of the building that first connects to the Uffizi Gallery. You can follow this walkway all the way above the Uffizi, above the Ponte Vecchio, and into the Boboli Gardens. When the Medici family was in power long ago, they were concerned that it was too dangerous to walk among the citizens of the city.  To avoid mixing with everyday people, this passageway was built.

Ponte Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio

5.  Ponte Vecchio

The Ponte Vecchio is one of the most famous sites in Florence. Not only is it beautiful, but it is also the only bridge in Florence that was not destroyed during World War II.  The bridge can be seen from many locations around Florence, but the best view of the bridge is from Piazza della Michelangelo.  Atop the bridge, you will see the secret passage that started at the Uffizi. This passage is on the left-hand side of the bridge above the shops. Before the bridge was covered in gold jewelry shops, it was inundated with butcher shops. However, when the Medici family walked across the bridge in their secret passageway, they were taken back by the terrible smell. Some years later, they changed the shops to gold shops to avoid the stench from the butchers.  Even today, the Ponte Vecchio is filled with fine jewelry shops.  These shops are very expensive and filled with mostly gold rings and bracelets. It is usually too expensive for the common passer-by, but its still worth window shopping.  There isn’t much to do on the bridge itself other than look through the windows of the shops, but it does provide a spectacular view of the Arno River.  If it’s a nice day, have a seat on the bridge and look at the Tuscan countryside!

Medici Chapel

Medici Chapel

6.  Medici Chapel (Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6)

The Medici Chapels (Cappelle medicee) is a structure in the Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence, Italy.  It comprises two structures added to Brunelleschi’s original design, each was intended to celebrate the power of the Medicis as Grand Dukes of Tuscany. One is the Sagrestia Nuova, the “New Sacristy,” designed by Michelangelo.  The other is the Cappella del Principi, the 16th and 17th-century “Chapel of the Princes,” which is entirely covered with a revetment of colored marbles inlaid with pietra dura.  The Medici Chapel is roughly 6 Euros to enter – a modest price for a magnificent museum and cathedral.  Most tourists do not know the significance of this Capella, however, it is home to some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. If you want to see the power of the Medici family, you must stop at this museum.

San Miniato al Monte

San Miniato al Monte

7.  San Miniato al Monte (Via del Monte alle Croci, 22)

If you are looking at Piazza Michelangelo from the Ponte Vecchio, you will see the San Miniato church directly to the right of the Piazza. It is a beautiful church that overlooks the city of Florence and houses the grave of Carlo Collodi, the writer of Pinocchio.  San Miniato sits at one of the highest points in the city of Florence and is regarded as one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. Its Romanesque structures are similar to that of the Duomo.  Inside the church, you will find the mosaic of Christ between the Virgin and St. Minias which was made in 1260.  The Cappella del Cardinale del Portogallo is said to be ‘one of the most magnificent funerary monuments of the Italian Renaissance.’  Even if you do not want to visit the church itself, the view from the top has proven to be even better than the view from Piazza Michelangelo.  The best part about this church? It’s FREE!

Uffizi Gallery

Uffizi Gallery

8.  Uffizi Gallery (Piazzale delgi Uffizi, 6)

Most of the people that visit Florence come to look at the wonderful Tuscan countryside, and then to sift through the massive amounts of Renaissance art.  If you have come to look through the Renaissance art, the Uffizi Gallery should be your first stop.  The gallery sits in between Piazza della Signoria and the Arno River – a very central location relative to the rest of the city.  The view from inside the gallery is a hidden secret in Florence – the upper floors give you some of the best views of Ponte Vecchio.  Make sure you stop to take a picture… or twelve.  This museum is easily the most famous museum of Renaissance art in the world.  There is so much to see in this museum that you may need an entire afternoon to just skim through it.  Here you will find some famous paintings by Michelangelo, Giotto´s Madonna and Child, Botticelli´s Birth of Venus and many other famous Renaissance pieces.  The cost to get into this museum is roughly 11€ as well.  It would be well worth the extra 2 to 3€ to have an audio guided tour. These audio tours can be purchased at the museum just after you purchase your museum entrance ticket.

The David - Accademia

The David – Accademia

9. The Accademia (Via Ricasoli, 58-60)

Many tourists arrive in Florence and are quickly mistaken that the statue of David in Piazza della Signoria is the original statue created by Michelangelo, however, this is not the case.  The statue of David was originally created by Michelangelo to put atop of a church in Florence. After its completion, though, it was too beautiful to risk placing outside. While the original statue is located here, in the Accademia, there are several replicas scattered around Florence that should not be mistaken for the real one!  There are many other pieces of art and sculptures in this museum, although none of them grab the attention of tourists like David does, that doesn’t mean they aren’t worth checking out.  The museum is one of the smaller ones in Florence – it should only take about 1.5 hours or so to go through.  If you visit the museum in the morning when it opens until about 5 pm, it will cost 11€ to tour.  However, if you visit the museum later in the evening, after 5 pm, it will only cost you 9€ to tour.  Make sure that you are able to spend a little time in this small museum – it is beautiful!

San Lorenze Indoor Market

San Lorenzo Indoor Market

10. San Lorenzo Market

The San Lorenzo market is one place in Florence that cannot be missed.  Located in the heart of the city, the San Lorenzo market consists of an indoor and outdoor market.  The indoor market will resemble everything that you have ever pictured an Italian market to look like – butchers running around, fresh pasta being made, several Italian voices shouting out prices and customers bargaining for the best deal.  If you have no desire to purchase anything inside the indoor market, it is still something that you should have a look through.  There is a delicious fresh pasta stand where you can watch them make the pasta you are purchasing – it is called Pasta Fresco.  If you are not in the mood for pasta, check out some of the fresh fruit or even dried fruit stands.  Just make sure you keep an eye on the time – the indoor market closes at 2 pm every day!

Right outside of the indoor market, you will find the outdoor market filled with scarves, leather goods, rings, clothes, and shoes. This market is a magnificent place to purchase a few smaller souvenir items to take home – or a scarf to wear while you walk the streets if it is cold.  Be careful buying things in this market.  To be more specific, avoid purchasing any type of leather from the outdoor market. While the leather may feel and look like good leather, it is easy to fool a tourist – most of this leather is Chinese leather and very cheap. With that being said, leather is one of the things that Florence is known for, and there are lots of great leather artisans throughout the city.  If you are up for a challenge, you can bargain with some of the stands in the market. You may be able to get a good deal on some small items!  Because of its central location, it is easy to make the San Lorenzo market a part of your daily routine while visiting Florence!  It’s a great market, so why not! 

Statues in Boboli Gardens

Statues in Boboli Gardens

11. Boboli Gardens (Piazza de´ Pitti, 1)

The Garden that extends from the hill behind the Pitti Palace as far as Porta Romana reached its current extension and appearance, becoming one of the largest and most elegant Italian style gardens, through several stages of enlargement and restructuring work carried out at different times.

The first works initially affected the area that was closer to the palace, after the building had been purchased by Cosimo I de´ Medici and by his wife Eleonora di Toledo, who had chosen this place for a new grand ducal palace.  The Medici and the Lorraine families continued to enrich and enlarge the garden also in 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Besides adding lovely meadows, avenues, small groves and beautiful panoramic views, they made the garden more precious by including extraordinary decorative complexes, thus forming an outdoor museum that exhibited both Roman and 16th and 17th-century statues.

It will cost you roughly 11€ to venture through the gardens, but the view of the vineyards from the top of the gardens is well worth the price you pay. Not only are they a beautiful place to relax, but they are also the perfect spot to have a picnic and enjoy the day.  Other than looking at the gardens, there is not much else to do so bring something to entertain you!

To Complete Your Experience:

There are so many wonderful things to do and see in Florence, doing everything might be impossible.  I have included a few more places that I recommend for a more in-depth Florentine experience.

Bargello Museum: Via del Proconsolo, 4

Many tourists skip this museum because of its location in the city, and because they don’t really know what is in it, however, this museum is perhaps the city’s biggest hidden gem. Here you will find Donatello’s statue of David and the Golden Doors of the Baptistery (the building that sits in front of the Duomo).  Some of Michelangelo’s very first sculptures are here as well. We highly recommend visiting this museum if you have enough time.

The Ferragamo & Gucci Museums

As huge fashion enthusiast, these fashion Meccas are on our list, however they won’t be that interesting to those who don’t appreciate Italian fashion. Both Gucci and Ferragamo got their starts in and around Florence. In fact, the current Gucci Museum was previously the Gucci factory. Now all of the big Italian design houses have factories right outside of the city. Most have factory stores where you can buy their products for a fraction of the cost i.e. Prada bags for 100€. Even if shopping isn’t your thing, the history of how these fashion icons rose to international notoriety is truly amazing. They also have tours in English, which will even give you a better understanding of everything in the museums. After walking around the exhibits, you can hang out in the Ferragamo store or Gucci Café, which are also sights to behold… Gucci has special Gucci logo sugar cubes.

Verrazzano Vineyard

Verrazzano Vineyard

The Verrazzano Vineyard

Florence is in Tuscany and surrounded by numerous beautiful vineyards. They are all probably fantastic – we went to one in Chianti called Verrazzano. It was wonderful! Whether or not you enjoy wine, wine is one of the largest exports from this part of the world, and it is a huge part of the Italian lifestyle. It’s fascinating seeing the manufacturing process from beginning to end, and you can even enjoy a nice dinner overlooking the Tuscan countryside.

Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella: Via della Scala, 16

Santa Maria Novella is the name of the main train station in Florence, a beautiful cathedral, and one very old pharmacy. If you’d like to try something off the tourist trail, head over to the old pharmacy which was just named by GQ magazine as one of the best perfumeries in the world! The store was established by Florentine monks way back in the 13th century. Today, Santa Maria Novella offers limited-production room sprays, candles, and potpourri in formulations that date back to the place’s historical roots: think of essential oils of cinnamon, orange, lavender, and pomegranate, and you’re getting there. Santa Maria Novella may not be reinventing the wheel or creating fancy new scents, but they are continuing a wonderfully-smelling tradition centuries old. Plus you know what they say… “if it ain’t broke, why fix it?”

For the FOOD Lovers:

Gelato: Vivoli & Grom

Vivoli – Vivoli is perhaps the most famous gelateria in Florence and has been around the city for many, many years. The gelato here is exquisite and has a unique, not so creamy, taste. You can get a small cup here for 1.80€ and a medium sized cup for only 2.50€. We suggest making this a stop on your trip if you are looking for popular taste. Ask the lady behind the counter for her favorite flavors, and she will be sure to give you some samples before you have to choose two flavors.

Grom – Grom is without a doubt our favorite gelateria in Florence. You will rarely ever get to Grom and walk right inside – there is almost always a crowd of people and a line down the street… If that’s any indication. They have about 15 to 20 different flavors to choose from including some yogurt and water based gelato (for those that are not fond of the creamy taste).  A small cone or cup here is going to cost you 2.50€, but it is well worth it!  The best flavors are Crema de Grom, Bacio, Pistachio and Hazelnut.

Cheap Eats:

There is a new place to eat on every corner in Florence, and you will find that most restaurants will practically beg you to come in and try their food. Be careful for just walking into any place on the street as some of these places can be quite pricey for Italian food that is not so authentic – Florence definitely tries to cater to the tourist’s tastes.  Here are a few places that you can go for a cheaper bite to eat that still tastes amazing.

La Capannina: Via Sant’antonino, 49r

This restaurant was quite a find for Nicole when she was in Florence. When her mom visited the city, they dined at several places that were much more expensive than this place, but this one turned out to be her mother’s favorite restaurant in the city – by far. It looks like a little hole in the wall, but trust us, the food will not disappoint.  Here you can find spaghetti, gnocchi, chicken dishes, bruschetta and every traditional Italian dish you could ever dream of. Everything is beyond reasonably priced: Spaghetti ranges from 5-6€ for a heaping plate, Bruschetta is 4€, Gnocchi ranges from 5-7€ for a dish that will fill two people up and Wine is only 4€ for .5L.

The Wine Shop: On the corner of Via del Giglio and Via Faenza

If you are just strolling the streets and want a good little place to grab a sandwich and a glass of wine, this is your place. The bread is so incredibly fresh that you will want another sandwich before you are done with the first one. Walk up to the counter to grab a small slip of paper and choose 5 ingredients that you want on your sandwich, grab a glass of wine, and sit down to wait for the barista to bring you your freshly made sandwich. One sandwich will more or less fill you up and is only 4€. Another place that is authentic – you won’t find too many tourists stopping in here.

The Oil Shoppe: Via S. Egidio, 22r

Contrary to the Wine Shop, the Oil Shoppe is known as being the tourist sandwich place of Florence, but for a good reason – 3.50 € will get you a sandwich that will fill you up for the entire day. Be prepared to deal with chaos as you order – its a create your own sandwich shop, so make sure you figure out what you want on your sandwich before stepping up to the counter. After you escape the craziness of ordering, the sandwich will be well worth it!

Gusta Pizza: Via Maggio, 46r

If you return to home without visiting Gusta Pizza, you are guaranteed to beat yourself up. Gusta Pizza is home of the best pizza in the world – made fresh in a brick oven right after you order it. It is the second most incredible place to eat in Florence (our #1 pick is coming up) – for this reason, it will ALWAYS be packed so be careful when you go. With limited seating, your best time to snag a few chairs is when it is open for lunch between 12 and 3. Gusta closes mid-day and reopens at 7 until 10 or so. Be careful, GUSTA is NOT open on MONDAY. Although the pizza is easily the best in Florence (or all of Italy for that matter), the prices don’t show it: you can get an entire Margarita pizza for 5€ or spice it up and choose from several others for about 7€. Make sure you get your own pizza – you will eat the whole thing! We found this place by accident, but later found out it was rated #5 out of 869 restaurants in Florence for the best food. The only downside to Gusta is that it is a little off the beaten path (it’s a little bit of a walk), but we promise you won’t be disappointed.

Yellow Bar: Via del Proconsolo, 39

Yellow is a great place for pizza and pasta. It’s very centrally located (only a couple of blocks from the Duomo) and very reasonably priced. When Blake lived in Florence for the summer, his summer program brought their students to Yellow a couple times a weak. They have lots of seating with nice big tables and delicious food that will satisfy some of the pickiest of eaters.

Gato e Volpe: Via Ghibellina, 151r

Gato e Volpe is easy on our list of top 5 best places to eat in Florence. It’s nothing special, just an all-around nice place to eat. The owner is a really nice guy, and although the pizza isn’t Gusta, it’s still excellent. The house pasta dish (Pasta Gato e Volpe), is a great choice if you like things on the spicier side and their homemade bread is divine. Truth be told, the one major flaw in Italian cooking is their bread. While you find some good options every now and again, in general, the bread options are lacking. However, we are proud to report that this place is an exception. Gato e Volpe makes hot fresh focaccia bread all-day long, and they serve it with a thick balsamic that is to die for… Honestly, you could make a meal of the bread alone.

A little pricey but worth it: 

Acqua al 2: Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40

Acqua al 2 is a wonderful place to enjoy a nice meal in Florence. The restaurant itself is beautiful and sits in a lovely part of the city, just behind the Uffizi gallery and just in front of Santa Croce. Prepare to get a little dressed up to eat here – but nothing too fancy. Some of the best dishes on the menu are: Fileno al Mirtillo (a hand carved fillet mignon topped with blueberry sauce) and Farfalline al Funghi Porcini (bowtie pasta with sautéed porcini mushrooms and imported mascarpone cheese). This meal will be delicious – you won’t be disappointed!  If you are slightly indecisive when it comes to amazing food, don’t fret! This restaurant actually has a sampler as an option, which allows to try up to three of their famous dishes in one!

Osteria Dei Pazzi: Via dei Lavatoi, 1

If you are looking for the most authentic Italian food, this is your place. You won’t find this restaurant in tourist books. In fact, the only reason we know it exists is because one of Nicole’s teachers took her there for dinner one evening. You will be blown away by the culture of this place – it is everything you think of when you picture Italian cooking and an Italian atmosphere. We can’t think of a better place to get the full Italian experience than here! Get ready to have a 3-hour dinner that consists of an Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, and a lot of wine.

Za-Za´s Trattoria: Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26

Za-Za’s is a quaint trattoria located just next to the central market in Florence. It’s wonderfully central location makes it a hit for many tourists. If you desire a place that is not a tourist trap, we recommend first dining at the restaurants above. Although Za-Za’s can be a little consumed with tourists, it is still worth checking out. The food is wonderful! If it is nice outside when you visit, sit on the trattoria (terrace) for a lovely look at the city. If it’s too chilly, you can eat inside the rustic looking restaurant lit by candles.

Il Teatro: Via Ghibellina, 128r

Il Teatro was Blake’s favorite restaurant in all of Florence and definitely one of the city’s best-kept secrets. The owner Mirella is a wonderful Romanian woman who was basically his Italian mother during his stay in Florence.  Even though she might not be Italian by birth, she has lived in Italy for many years, and she knows how to cook some delicious Italian food.  He went to her place about 20 times when he lived in Florence, and she speaks English (in case your Italian isn’t the best).  We love all of her food (there isn’t anything on the menu that we wouldn’t recommend), but the pesto chicken is something spectacular.  It’s not even on the menu, but she’ll make it if you ask her nicely!

Navigating to Florence:

Flying: For those of you already in Europe, the cheapest way to get to Florence is (usually) to fly into Pisa. Pisa is only a one hour train ride from Florence and is a Ryanair airport. A flight to Pisa will cost you roughly 25€ one-way. The ticket from Pisa to Florence via train is only 5.90€.  For those of you flying from outside of Europe and the Florence, airport is too pricey, check any of the other regional airports.  Many people fly into Rome and then take a train to Florence, which is not a bad option either.

Train: Taking the train around Italy is easily the cheapest and fastest way to get around. From Rome, a train ticket will only cost you 17.50€ for the cheaper and slower (4 hours) train. If you are willing to splurge, you can take a quicker train (2 hours) to Florence for about 50€.  Trenitalia has a promotion for weekend travelers: Travel on Saturday, and it’s buy one get one free for any train to any location in Italy! Be careful though, you have to purchase your tickets on Friday to get the promotion prices!

Extra City Information:

Trains: There are three main train stations that service Florence: Florence Rifredi, Florence Campo di Marte, and Santa Maria Novella.  Santa Maria Novella is the main train station servicing Florence.  We suggest entering and exiting the city from this station since it is in the city center.  The station code for Santa Maria Novella is S.M.N.

While in Italy, it is important to remember that before boarding any train, you must “validate” your ticket in the small yellow boxes you will see scattered around each rail station. Failure to validate your ticket might result in a nice little fine when the tickets are checked on the train. DO NOT FORGET!

Buses: Because Florence is a smaller, historic city, there is not a metro or underground system to get you around.  Walking in Florence is very easy, but if you are too tired to walk, there are many buses that run throughout the city. Each bus ticket is 1.20€ and can be purchased from any tobacco shop around Florence. Once on the bus, you must also “validate” your ticket. After the ticket is validated, you have 1.5 hours of use, so feel free to hop on and off as many buses as you would like during this time period.

Italian 101:
  1. Per Favore: Please
  2. Grazie: Thank You
  3. Non Parlo Italiano: I don’t speak Italian
  4. Parla Inglese?: Do you speak English?
  5. Prego: You’re Welcome
  6. Scusi, dov’e il bagno?: Excuse me, where is the bathroom?
  7. Uscita: Exit
  8. Ciao: Hello/Goodbye
  9. Arrivederci: Goodbye
  10. Buongiorno: Good Morning!
  11. Non lo so: I don’t know

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